In August 2023, Seb Bouin completed a series of challenging first ascents in Saint-Aubain, France. This relatively new climbing area is located near the famous Verdon Gorge. Bouin's first FA was a flush of Baize More 5.14c (8c+), the most difficult flush of his career.
“[Baise Moi] “This route is the main line of the sector and crosses almost the entire crag from right to left,” explains Bouin. “It's very obvious and really special. Many strong climbers have tried it before, but no one has ever completed it. One day, vaulter Adrien Bouron suggested we try flash climbing the route. At the time it was estimated at 5.14d, which was clearly beyond my flash level. But he was so urging me on that I finally decided to give it a go.”
“To my surprise, I felt great. It was 100% my own climbing style. I made no mistakes in the crux, in every move and was able to recover with breaks. I was pretty relaxed mentally so I was able to take risks at the right time. The last section should have been easier but it was a bit dirty and I was a bit nervous. The pressure built up as I realised I might actually be able to make it. I was surprised and happy to have such a great climb on my first ascent. I don't usually do that but it worked out this time.”
The next FA was a bolted route, Jamming Destruction 5.15a/b (9a+/b). “It starts with a sloping bow on the roof,” he described the route. “The beginning is probably around V13. You then reach a rest area where you put on crack gloves, which are very helpful in the next crux. I had to lock my left fist into the sloping crack and jump onto the sloper with my right. This crux is very tricky, a bit unpredictable when you string it all together, and pretty unique. Then there's a beautiful stamina test that leads to the anchor.”
Once he got past the crux of the hand jam, Buan was able to find another knee rest, allowing him to remove his crack gloves and increase friction on the sloper above. You can see the FA of his wild jamming destruction in the video linked below.
