Kevin Raymond showed me how to walk. I thought I already knew, but this tall, bearded, laid-back Frenchman imparted new wisdom to me. “Breathe in for three steps, hold for one,” he said, pressing his hands against his bulging belly. “Then breathe out for three steps, hold for one step, and repeat.”
Bagnols Map
Afghan walking is a technique used by Afghan nomads that is said to reduce stress, improve circulation and increase stamina, allowing you to cover long distances with minimal effort. When Kevin and I were exploring the Forest of Andaine in southwest Normandy (part of the largest signposted area in France), it occurred to us that having more stamina might come in handy.
Located in the middle of a forest, the spa town of Bagnoles-de-l'Orne has long been a place of health and recreation. In the Middle Ages, healing springs were discovered here, and from the late 19th century, with the support of politician Albert Christofle, Bagnoles was transformed into a resort where the wealthy could enjoy the country air and medicinal waters, stay in luxury villas, and enjoy the casino, horse racing track and luxury boutiques.
Visitors running along a rocky trail. Photo: Bagnols Tourist Office
Its clientele has shifted. While some French tourists still visit the town's spas for a “treatment,” Bagnoles is reinventing itself for a new type of wellness seeker. In 2022, Bagnoles became the first place in France to receive the Green Destination label, in recognition of its commitment to environmental protection and sustainable tourism, which included the creation of new walking, running and cycling routes for which trailmaker Kevin is partly responsible. There are now 70 routes to choose from (from easy greens to more challenging blacks), covering more than 800 miles (1,300km). It's the largest collection of routes of any destination in the national On-Piste network.
This was appealing, especially since it would make the trip to Bagnols part of the adventure. From the ferry port of Ouistreham to the medieval town of Domfront, it's about 74 miles (120km) via the Vélos-Francessets cycling trail. Then from Domfront to Bagnoles, it's 13 miles east along the Vérocénie trail to Paris. Using less-trafficked bike paths and less-trafficked backroads, both well-marked and scenic, the ride follows the Orne River, crosses hilly Swiss Normandy, and weaves among the oak, pine and beech trees of the Andaine. If you're taking the overnight ferry from Portsmouth, you can rent a bike at Roulez Jeunesse Loisirs (from €20 a day, €78 for five days) and pedal south by sunrise, assuming you don't pack more than you can fit in two pannier bags. This must have been the most gratifying way to arrive in a town where nature is at the heart of activity.
Rugged cliffs, dense forests and great cycle routes characterise the area as Sarah Baxter discovers it. Photo: Sarah Baxter
First, the Vélos Francet follows the Orne Canal, passing through Caen (the city of William the Conqueror) and following an abandoned railway line. I rest at La Louvre campsite, a forested riverside campsite surrounded by the steep cliffs and deep ravines of Swiss Normandy. (The campsite closes at the end of September, but Le Site Normandie in Crécy is a good alternative that is open until mid-December.) The next day I carry on to Bagnols and enjoy a picnic with farm-fresh Camembert cheese in the grounds of an abandoned 11th-century castle at Domfront.
It was a kingdom of bluebells and stitchwort, of chaffinches and chiffchaffs, of deer hoof prints and mossy trees.
Luckily, the Château du Gué aux Biches was in a relatively good state of restoration. This was to be my home outside Bagnols, and it was a surprise to me. A former residence of the aforementioned Albert Christofle, restored to its Belle Epoque glory by Danish couple Søren Rasmussen and Claus Bentin, Gué aux Biches is surprisingly homey and affordable for such a posh address. I read old books by Dumas in an elegant suite (the author has stayed here many times), sipped Crémant sparkling wine in a sumptuous salon, and ate hearty meals beneath the chandeliers in the dining room. Moreover, Søren and Claus were the best hosts; among many other kind gestures, they picked up guests without cars from the train station (Briouse) and loaned bicycles to those who didn't bring their own.
But I did hop on my bike and take a short ride into town by the lake to try out some of Bagnoles' trails. I started with a stroll through the Belle Époque part of town, where Christofle sold land to wealthy leisure travelers to build their villas under certain conditions. They had to follow a set architectural style and could only use certain colors. The result is a beautiful array of toasty racks along the leafy streets, no two of which are exactly alike, but still homogeneous.
A balcony at Château du Guey aux Biches
Next, I followed Trail 3, a six-mile loop through the forest before emerging from the woods into bocage (patchwork) country, a terrain of high hedgerows and sunken paths that proved a nuisance for liberating allied forces during the Battle of Normandy. I passed the pale-pink Château de Couternes for an invigorating stroll through lush greenery. A light rain was falling, but the trees kept me dry, and the calls of cuckoos brightened my mood.
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Many of the numbered paths are designated mountain and gravel bike routes, trail running and Nordic walking routes – there's nothing wrong with normal walking of course, but the aim is to cater for everyone – Kevin is a keen ultramarathon runner and has designed a 62 mile route and race (taking place in September) for those with the energy to do so.
As for myself, I enjoyed mixing it up. One day, Kevin and I ran Trail 1, a three-mile loop that passes through the Abbey of Saint-Horterre, dedicated to a sixth-century hermit famous for performing miracles. Around here, it's customary for sick people to drop a pebble on themselves when they're sick, and it's said that the pebble will heal them when it falls. I didn't feel the need to, since I made it all the way without injury. But as we passed Hippolyte, one of the oldest oaks in the forest, I stretched my arms out to its five-metre trunk for a healing hug.
Bagnols town centre. Photo: Sarah Baxter
I cycled too. One afternoon, I followed the old railway line north to Briouse, recently converted into a traffic-free bike path. Just outside the town, I followed country roads to Michel Breton's farm. His orchards were starting to flower, and outside, a mobile still was operating the steampunk-style contraption that turns Michel's cider into Calvados. Madame Breton treated me to a generous tasting in the farm shop. I left clinking my panniers containing a bottle of Poilinot, a delicious mix of pear juice and brandy.
And I walked. On my final day, I chose Trail 2, which led deep into the forest. At one point a runner passed by, but no one else. It was a kingdom of bluebells and stitchwort, chaffinches and chiffchaff, deer hoofprints and moss-covered trees. I circled lakes and jumped streams and picked my way down narrow paths lit by dappled sunlight. It just felt like the place… I tried to pretend to be Kevin, or an Afghan nomad, breathing slowly in time with my steps, the oxygen filling my nostrils, my lungs and my bones. Bagnoles wellness, 21st century style.
This trip was provided by bagnolesdelorne.co.uk and orne-normandy-travel.co.uk. Brittany Ferries offers a ferry from Portsmouth to Caen/Ouistreham and back by foot or bike for £98. Plots at Camping de la Rouvre start from €11 and cabins for two from €40. B&B double rooms at Château du Gué aux Biches start from €175. Bike/e-bike rental rates start from €20/34 per day, with cheaper long-term rentals at roulezjeunesse.bike. For routes see veloscenic.com, cycling.lavelofrancette.com and onpiste.com.
