View from the east ridge of El Dorado. Photo NPS/W. Tarantino
Food canister requirements in some popular climbing zones
From June 1 to November 15, use of permitted hard-sided food canisters is required when camping below the vegetation line in the Boston Basin, El Dorado, and Sulfide Glacier cross-country zones. This is not a blanket requirement for the entire park or all parts of these zones, but after two years of internal review and public comment, it is based on areas that are heavily used by both humans and wildlife and that wildlife is accustomed to. The area was intentionally limited. Human food acquisition and other food storage methods were ineffective, inadequate, or impossible. Food from wild animals must be stored securely, but canisters are not necessary for camping or cycling at high altitudes along glaciers or ridges. For more information on food storage requirements, see this page.
backcountry permit
A backcountry permit is required year-round for all overnight trips within the park, including mountain climbing. Permits are required whenever you plan to spend the night, whether in a tent or at a vivid site. Backcountry permits are designed to prevent overcrowding in some locations and disperse visitors throughout the park at a rate that causes less damage to natural resources such as native vegetation, soil, and wildlife. . Permits also allow for varying levels of solitude and quality climbing experiences with less crowding on routes and less impact from human waste, trampling, and trash at campgrounds. For more information on when and how to obtain a permit, please visit our Backcountry Permits page.
There are no admission or parking fees within the North Cascades National Park Service Complex. However, many routes and trails begin in the National Forest and require a parking pass (Mount Shuksan via Shannon Ridge or Lake Anne, and many other climbing routes). The Northwest Forest Pass or the Federal Interagency Recreation Pass (America the Beautiful Pass) is accepted in the parking lot and is accepted at all ranger stations.
A ranger climbing the Fisher Chimney route on Mt. Shukuyama. Mount Baker rises in the background. Photo courtesy of NPS/W. Tarantino
current situation
Up-to-date climbing status reports are available from climbing rangers, conservation rangers, voluntary climbing registries, and reports from other climbers. To complete a climb report, please email the Marblemount Wilderness Information Center. Please include the route, snow level, hazards encountered (or not), any summits attempted, and whether or not your group successfully summited.
Many areas of the park are remote and rarely visited, so there are little or no reports of current conditions. These are wild places for epic stories of true exploration, adventure, and often physical challenge. Find these places in your own way. When you return from your adventure, you can submit a status report if you wish, or decide that the location you discovered is best.
Leave no trace of climbers
The low-impact principle of “Leave No Trace” is important no matter what activity you're engaging in, but in high mountains and popular climbing areas, some practices are critical to the ecological health of the area. It will be. Here are some important precautions to take to protect the places and routes you often climb.
take care of the trees (and flowers and meadows)
Climbers will be standing on land with fragile vegetation and should be handled with extreme care. Heather and huckleberry are woody trees, and the weight of boots, backpacks, and tents can cause their stems to break. All pastures are susceptible to trampling damage, and erosion from too many boots on the same path can cause loss of plant species and further erosion. If there is a path, take it. Even if it means taking the trail instead of heading straight up the climb via 37 switchbacks. You can save energy and protect nature. If there are no trails or designated camps, always look for rocks, snow, or bare ground where you can move and set up camp. When they have to cross a vegetated area, they spread out so that all their footprints do not trample the same vegetation.
Composting toilets are installed where the sun can help break down the human waste. Please do not throw away garbage. Upper Boston Basin.
rosemary seyfried
How do you dispose of human waste?
Human waste is a contaminant to both land and water, a potential health hazard, and an unpleasant eyesore on routes, near vivid sites, or when climbing ropes drag along trails. Don't bury waste in the snow, throw it into crevasses, or leave it dirty near your route or camp. Composting toilets have been installed at the Boston Basin climbing area and the Sulfide Glacier on Mt. If you have soil, dig a small hole 6 to 8 inches deep and bury the waste. For rocky or mineral soils where there are no other suitable options, bury the waste in a shallow hole. If you are on snow or bare rocks, you have to go to the last option – in a blue bag. Pack waste into blue bags or other removal systems (cat litter in paper bags, PVC “poo tubes”, or any other creative device you want to carry).
Please understand and follow the following dos and don'ts regarding human waste disposal.
Do not bury waste in the snow. The snow will melt in a few days and it will look exactly the same.
Don't throw it into a crevasse. Glaciers in the Pacific Northwest are relatively thin and melt quickly.
Don't paint it on nearby rocks. You will be submerged in water. Anyone who has camped here probably will too. If someone was smearing human waste near you, would you want to drink water or filter your water?
Don't be shy about disposing of human waste. Everyone faces the same problems in remote areas.
Do not allow group members to leave piles of poo in the wilderness.
Discuss waste disposal options and plans as a group.
Ask any experienced ranger how many piles of poop they see on patrol. Then you'll see that this problem is bigger than you think.
Ask rangers about restroom options at various climbing areas. Rangers will be happy to answer questions.
Pick up a blue bag at the ranger station and keep it with you on every climb.
New bear footprints in the snow of Neve Glacier
Beau Bracken
Protect wildlife and gear
Although urine and sweat are not considered a health hazard, both are salty and attract wildlife, especially rodents, deer, and mountain goats. Protect your gear and keep animals out of the wild by urinating on exposed rocks far from your campsite and storing salty gear and other food items out of reach of wild animals ( Use a bear canister or hang bait from a tree branch or large rock). Take a walk before dinner and find a scenic spot far from the camp area to cook and wash up. This will reduce odors and animal visits to your camp. The tent you saved from being gnawed by rodents might just be yours. If you think bears won't move beyond tree lines, think again. Bears have been seen trekking up the Quin Sabé Glacier in the Boston Basin, gliding down the Neve Glacier, and swimming in subalpine lakes near Prophet Mountain, to name a few. It only takes one instance of a bear getting food from a climber to cause problems. Don't make this mistake.
Flags and webbing are also trash.
Flags and excessive webbing are considered trash. Pack it like any other trash. In recent years, many climbers have complained with sadness and bitterness about the countless fluttering flags seen along many routes in the North Cascades. Where can one go to explore and test one's limits and skills when others leave so many traces of human presence? The webbing left along the climbing route is also an eyesore. Some climbing routes are littered with lots of colorful, frayed webs. Learn how to navigate using a map and compass or take advantage of GPS technology. If you feel you cannot safely navigate the terrain without leaving markers, label the stakes and flags and remove all stakes and flags diligently and responsibly. If you must leave webbing while rappelling, remove one or more wobbly slings that are already in place and use natural-colored webbing that won't be visible from a distance.
Fire – Do not burn
Use a backpacking stove for cooking. To stay warm, wear layers of fleece or wool clothing and bring a good sleeping bag. Fires are a fun, old-fashioned pastime, but they aren't necessary for cooking or keeping warm. It is also illegal in all cross country zones.
Climbers walk through the deep brush of Luna Access Creek.
R. Dalton
Learn how to coexist with the devil's club
Many climbers who climb the long, arduous approach are cursed by the devil's club, alder bushes, or fallen tree branches that entangle them. However, keep this in mind. The thick walls of greenery you have to break through while climbing are part of what makes climbing in the Pacific Northwest unique, challenging, and sometimes spectacular. Learn to understand and respect this distinctive ritual of Cascade climbing. Also note that the vegetation is protected in this natural park. Cutting, limbing, or destroying vegetation is illegal and can lead to serious court appearances.
Safety considerations
No trip planning is complete until you consider the most important element of climbing: returning safely and without injury. No summit is worth injury or death. If the situation or common sense dictates you should, change direction. Routes and glacier conditions vary greatly throughout the seasons. Climbers must have the appropriate equipment, skills, and experience for a particular route. Although many injuries occur on approaches where climbers let their guard down, the most serious injuries can occur while climbing. Weather can be rough in the North Cascades. Climbers should carefully monitor the forecast before setting out and turn back if conditions worsen. Check our safety page for weather, avalanche forecasts, recommended gear, and more.
Other climbing resources
Marblemount Wilderness Information Center – Find current ranger station hours, phone numbers, and locations of the park's backcountry and climbing information stations. Climbing rangers and conservation rangers can offer advice, answer questions and help plan your trip.
Guidebooks – Many popular mountaineering guidebooks are available to learn about the routes and peaks in the park. The books listed below are examples of books available on this subject (listing does not imply endorsement by the National Park Service).
Cascade Alpine Guide – Climbing and High Routes: Rainy Pass to Fraser River, Fred Becky (also known as “Red Becky”) Cascade Alpine Guide – Climbing and High Routes: From Stevens Pass to Rainy Pass, Fred Becky (also known as “Green Becky”) Also known as “Becky”) Selected Climbs of the Cascades, Volumes 1 and 2, Classic Climbs of the North West Nelson and Potterfields, Alan Kearney
Certified Guide Services – If you are just starting to learn mountaineering or are looking to improve your climbing skills, a guided course or class may be right for you. Guides must obtain a license from the park to operate legally. Use only the most up-to-date list of guide services.
